plasterboard repair

Quick Answer: Most plasterboard holes can be repaired DIY using one of three methods depending on size: filler for holes under 20mm, a metal patch for holes 20-100mm, or a backing board repair for holes over 100mm. Small repairs cost £5-15 in materials, take 1-2 hours, and require 24 hours drying time. Larger holes need plasterboard offcuts, adhesive, jointing compound, and basic tools. The key is matching your repair method to the hole size and ensuring a solid backing for durability. Understanding Plasterboard Damage: Types and Causes Plasterboard (also called drywall or gypsum board) is the standard internal wall material in UK homes built after 1945. It’s lightweight, cost-effective, and easy to install — but it’s also vulnerable to impact damage. Before you start any repair, you need to identify what type of damage you’re dealing with. The repair method changes dramatically based on the hole size and the condition of the surrounding board. Common Types of Plasterboard Damage Small dents and dings: Under 20mm diameter, often from doorknobs, furniture impacts, or picture hooks Medium holes: 20-100mm across, typically from accidentally putting something through the wall Large holes: Over 100mm, from major impacts, removing old fixtures, or renovations Water damage: Soft, discoloured areas that require different treatment (see our guide on damp patches on plastered walls) Cracks: Usually from settlement or poor installation, covered in our article on why plaster cracks Hole Size Best Repair Method Difficulty Level Materials Cost Time Required Under 20mm Filler only Easy £3-5 30 minutes + drying 20-100mm Metal patch or offcut backing Moderate £8-15 1-2 hours + drying Over 100mm Full board section replacement Advanced £15-30 2-4 hours + drying Water damaged Cut out and replace with moisture-resistant board Advanced £20-50 3-5 hours + drying Essential Tools and Materials for Plasterboard Repairs Having the right kit makes the difference between a professional-looking repair and an obvious patch job. Here’s what you’ll need based on the repair size. Basic Repair Kit (Small Holes) All-purpose filler: Polyfilla, Toupret, or similar ready-mixed compound (£3-6 per tub at Screwfix) Filling knife: 75mm or 100mm flexible blade (£4-8) Fine-grit sandpaper: 120-180 grit for finishing (£2-4 per pack) Sanding block or sponge: For flat, even surfaces (£3-5) Dust sheet: To protect flooring (£2-6) Damp cloth: For cleaning excess filler Intermediate Repair Kit (Medium Holes) In addition to the basic kit, you’ll need: Metal repair patch: Self-adhesive mesh patches from B&Q or Wickes (£4-8 each) Jointing compound: Gyproc Easi-Fill or British Gypsum Board Finish (£7-12 per 5kg bag) Wider filling knife: 150-200mm for feathering edges (£8-15) Utility knife: For trimming damaged edges (£5-10) Advanced Repair Kit (Large Holes) For holes over 100mm, you’ll need proper backing support: Plasterboard offcut: Same thickness as existing (typically 9.5mm or 12.5mm) — ask at Travis Perkins for offcuts (£5-15) Timber battens: 50mm x 25mm treated softwood for backing (£3-8) Plasterboard screws: 25-32mm drywall screws (see our guide on plasterboard screws) (£3-6 per box) PVA adhesive: For sealing dusty edges (£4-8) Joint tape: Scrim or paper tape for joints (£3-6 per roll) Cordless drill: For driving screws (£40-120 if you don’t own one) Jab saw or padsaw: For cutting clean edges (£6-12) Pro Tip: Always buy jointing compound rather than standard all-purpose filler for holes over 50mm. It’s designed for plasterboard, sets harder, and shrinks less. Gyproc Easi-Fill is the trade standard — it’s mixed with water to a thick cream consistency and has excellent workability. Method 1: Repairing Small Holes (Under 20mm) This is the simplest repair and perfect for picture hook holes, small dents, or minor damage. Even complete beginners can achieve invisible results with patience. Step-by-Step Process 1. Prepare the area: Remove any loose paper or gypsum from around the hole. Use your filling knife to scrape away anything that isn’t firmly attached. The edges should be clean and solid. 2. Wipe clean: Use a slightly damp cloth to remove dust from the hole and surrounding area. This helps the filler bond properly. Let it dry for 5-10 minutes. 3. Apply filler: Load your filling knife with ready-mixed filler. Press it firmly into the hole, working from different angles to ensure you’re filling from the back forward. Overfill slightly — it will shrink as it dries. 4. Smooth off: Draw your knife across the repair in one smooth motion, applying firm pressure. The goal is to leave the surface flush with the wall, with minimal excess filler. 5. Let it dry: Most fillers take 2-4 hours to dry for small repairs. Don’t rush this — sanding wet filler creates a mess and poor results. 6. Sand smooth: Once completely dry (the filler will turn from pink to white, or dark to light depending on brand), sand with 120-grit paper wrapped around a sanding block. Use circular motions, gradually widening your area to feather the edges into the surrounding wall. 7. Second coat if needed: Small repairs often need a second thin coat to fill any shrinkage. Apply, dry, and sand again with 180-grit for a perfect finish. Filler Type Drying Time (Small Hole) Sandability Best For Price Polyfilla Ready Mixed 2-4 hours Excellent Interior holes under 25mm £3.50-5 Toupret Interior Filler 1-2 hours Very good Quick repairs, minimal shrinkage £5-7 Ronseal Smooth Finish 3-5 hours Good Deeper holes, very low shrink £4-6 Gyproc Easi-Fill (mixed) 60-90 minutes Excellent Professional repairs, precise control £7-12 (5kg) Method 2: Medium Holes Using a Metal Patch (20-100mm) For holes too large for filler alone but not big enough to warrant cutting out a section, self-adhesive metal patches are your best option. They provide a solid backing without needing access behind the plasterboard. The Repair Process 1. Clean the damaged area: Use your utility knife to cut away any loose or damaged plasterboard around the hole. Create clean, firm edges — don’t worry about making the hole slightly larger, it’s better to remove all compromised material. 2. Remove surface dust: Brush or vacuum the area, then wipe with a damp cloth. The metal patch needs clean plasterboard