Kitchen Plastering and Tiling: Preparation for Wall Tiles

Why Proper Plastering Matters Before Kitchen Tiling

Kitchen wall tiling isn’t simply a case of slapping adhesive onto whatever surface happens to be there. The preparation work—particularly the plastering—determines whether your tiles stay put for decades or start falling off within months.

We see countless kitchen renovation disasters where tiles have been applied directly to painted plasterboard, crumbling render, or poorly prepared surfaces. The result? Expensive remedial work that often means stripping everything back to the blockwork and starting again.

The reality is that kitchen environments present unique challenges. You’re dealing with:

• High humidity from cooking and steam
• Direct water splashes behind sinks and cookers
• Temperature fluctuations that cause expansion and contraction
• Heavy ceramic or porcelain tiles that require excellent adhesion
• Potential movement from wall-mounted cabinets and appliances

Each of these factors puts stress on the tile-to-wall bond. That’s why the substrate preparation is absolutely critical, and why we devote significant attention to this phase during any kitchen renovation project.

Understanding Substrate Requirements for Kitchen Tiles

Before we discuss specific plastering techniques, it’s important to understand what makes a suitable substrate for tiling. The British Gypsum technical guidance and BS 5385 (the British Standard for wall tiling) are clear on the requirements.

Essential Substrate Characteristics

Standard gypsum finishing plaster (pink or multi-finish) is not suitable as a final surface for direct tiling in wet areas. It’s too soft, absorbs moisture, and lacks the mechanical key that tile adhesives need.

The Right Plastering Approach for Kitchen Tiling

The plastering specification depends entirely on what you’re starting with. Let’s break this down by substrate type, because the approach differs significantly.

Plastering Over Blockwork or Brickwork

If you’re working with bare masonry—common in new builds or major renovations—the traditional approach remains the gold standard.

Sand and cement render provides the most robust base for tiling. We typically use a 4:1 or 5:1 sharp sand to cement ratio, applied in two coats:

• Scratch coat: 10-12mm thick, scratched horizontally when thumbprint-firm to provide mechanical key
• Top coat: 8-10mm thick, applied 24 hours later, ruled flat and finished with a wooden float
• Total thickness: 18-22mm, which compensates for minor irregularities in the blockwork

Allow 7-14 days for full curing before tiling, depending on temperature and ventilation. You can check dryness by taping polythene to the wall overnight—condensation indicates it’s not ready yet.

Preparing Existing Plaster for Tiling

Many kitchen renovations involve tiling over walls that have been previously plastered and painted. This scenario requires careful assessment.

First, test the existing plaster strength. Press your thumbnail firmly into the surface. If it leaves a significant indentation, the plaster is too soft for tiling. You’ll need to hack it off and start fresh.

For sound plaster that’s been painted:

• Remove any loose or flaking paint with a scraper
• Abrade glossy surfaces with 40-grit sandpaper or a Screwfix mechanical sander
• Fill any cracks or holes with proper filler techniques
• Prime the surface with diluted PVA (3:1 water to PVA) or a dedicated tile primer
• Allow to dry fully (2-4 hours) before tiling

Never tile over wallpaper, vinyl, or textured finishes. These must be completely removed down to the plaster surface.

Working with Plasterboard in Kitchens

Standard plasterboard is increasingly common in modern kitchen construction, particularly in stud walls. However, moisture-resistant plasterboard (the green-coloured boards) should always be specified in kitchen environments.

The good news? You don’t need to skim coat plasterboard before tiling. In fact, applying a finishing plaster creates a weaker substrate. Here’s the correct approach:

• Use 12.5mm moisture-resistant board as minimum (15mm for heavy tiles)
• Ensure studs are at 400mm centres maximum for tiling
• Fix boards with plasterboard screws at 150mm centres on edges, 200mm in field
• Fill and tape all joints with jointing compound
• Prime with a coat of diluted PVA (5:1 water to PVA for plasterboard)

The paper face of plasterboard provides excellent mechanical key for tile adhesive—much better than a smooth skim coat. This is why professional tilers prefer to tile directly onto primed plasterboard.

Specialised Backing Boards for Wet Areas

In areas subject to heavy water exposure—particularly behind sinks and around cooker splashbacks—many professional installers now specify tile backer boards rather than traditional plaster substrates.

These cement-based boards offer several advantages:

These boards fix directly to studs or existing masonry with specialist screws and adhesive, then tile directly on top. They’re completely waterproof, dimensionally stable, and eliminate any concerns about moisture penetration.

For a typical kitchen splashback area (3m² behind cooker and sink), budget £100-250 for materials using tile backer board instead of traditional render or plasterboard.

Surface Preparation Before Tile Adhesive

Once your base substrate is in place—whether that’s cured render, prepared existing plaster, or backer board—there’s still preparation work before the first tile goes up.

Priming: Essential, Not Optional

Priming serves three critical functions in kitchen tiling:

• Controls suction so adhesive doesn’t dry too quickly
• Binds dust and loose particles to the surface
• Improves initial grab and working time

The primer choice depends on your substrate:

For render and plaster: Diluted PVA works well for internal areas. Mix 3:1 water to PVA (brands like Wickes Own Brand or Unibond are fine). Apply generously with a brush or roller, allowing to become tacky but not fully dry before tiling.

For plasterboard: Use a more dilute mix at 5:1, or consider acrylic primers like BAL Prime APD which don’t re-emulsify when wet adhesive is applied.

For wet areas: Use a dedicated waterproof tile primer such as BAL Bond SBR or Mapei Primer G. These provide a waterproof barrier and superior adhesion—critical behind sinks and splashbacks.

Common Kitchen Plastering Mistakes That Affect Tiling

After 15+ years plastering kitchens across Kent, we’ve seen these errors repeatedly. Each one compromises the tile installation that follows.

1. Over-Skimming for a “Perfect” Finish

Homeowners often request an ultra-smooth skim coat before tiling, thinking it’s necessary. It’s not—and it’s actually counterproductive.

Finishing plasters like Thistle Multi-Finish create a dense, polished surface when properly trowelled. This reduces mechanical key that tile adhesive needs. The paper face of primed plasterboard or a wood-floated render provides far better adhesion.

If you’ve already skimmed the walls, the remedy is to prime with SBR-based primer or score the surface with a scarifier to provide mechanical key.

2. Insufficient Drying Time

Rush jobs lead to failures. Here are realistic drying times for kitchen substrates:

You cannot accelerate these times with heat guns or dehumidifiers without risking cracking and weak spots. For a detailed breakdown of drying times, see our guide on how long plaster takes to dry.

3. Ignoring Wall Condition Issues

Damp, movement cracks, or structural issues won’t disappear under tiles. They’ll only get worse.

Before any plastering or tiling work begins, address:

• Rising or penetrating damp: Requires proper damp proofing treatment before any cosmetic work
• Movement cracks: May indicate structural settlement needing professional assessment
• Loose plaster: Must be hacked off completely to solid background
• Blown render: Tap the wall—hollow sounds mean the render has separated and must be replaced

Tiling over problem areas is false economy. The tiles might look great initially, but the underlying issues will cause failure within months.

Step-by-Step: Preparing a Kitchen Wall for Tiling

Here’s the complete process we follow for a typical kitchen wall preparation, assuming you’re starting with bare blockwork or brickwork.

Stage 1: Assessment and Planning (Day 1)

Inspect the substrate: Check for level, plumb, and structural integrity. Mark out tile layout to identify any level issues early.

Plan your thickness: If walls are significantly out of level, you’ll need thicker render. We typically allow 20-25mm total build-up with sand/cement render.

Materials calculation: For a 3m × 2.4m wall (7.2m²) at 20mm thick, you’ll need approximately 140kg of building sand and 35kg of cement.

Stage 2: Base Preparation (Day 1)

• Dampen the wall lightly with a brush and water—prevents the masonry sucking moisture from your render too quickly
• Mix your scratch coat: 5 parts sharp sand to 1 part cement, plus plasticiser as per manufacturer instructions
• Apply to wall at 10-12mm thickness using a rendering trowel
• Scratch horizontal lines with a scratching tool when thumbprint-firm
• Allow to cure for 24 hours minimum

Stage 3: Top Coat Application (Day 2-3)

• Dampen the scratch coat lightly
• Apply top coat at 8-10mm thickness
• Rule flat using a straight edge and darby float
• Finish with a wooden float in circular motions—this creates the ideal surface texture for tiling
• Keep damp for 48 hours by misting with water to prevent rapid drying and cracking

Stage 4: Curing Period (Days 4-14)

Allow full cure time. The wall should be uniformly light grey with no dark (damp) patches remaining. Test with the polythene sheet method mentioned earlier.

Stage 5: Pre-Tiling Preparation (Day 14+)

• Brush down the wall to remove any dust or loose material
• Apply primer according to product instructions
• Plan your tile layout and mark guide lines
• Allow primer to become tacky (2-4 hours typically)
• Proceed with tiling using appropriate adhesive for your tile type and substrate

Choosing the Right Adhesive for Kitchen Tiles

Your substrate preparation is only half the equation. The tile adhesive must be compatible with both the tile and the backing.

For typical kitchen ceramic wall tiles on properly prepared render, standard cement-based adhesive (like Travis Perkins own brand or BAL White Star) is perfectly adequate. Save the expensive flexible adhesives for porcelain or situations where substrate movement is expected.

Always use a notched trowel appropriate for your tile size. For standard 150×150mm or 200×200mm kitchen tiles, a 6mm notched trowel provides correct coverage. Larger tiles require 10mm notches.

Special Considerations for Kitchen Splashbacks

The area behind your cooker and sink deserves extra attention. This is where water exposure is highest and tile failure most likely.

Waterproofing Behind Sinks

Even though you’ll have tiles, water can penetrate through grout lines over time. Apply a tanking membrane before tiling:

• BAL WP1 or Mapei Mapegum WPS are liquid-applied options
• Apply two coats with brush or roller to fully sealed surface
• Extend 300mm beyond the sink area on all sides
• Allow to cure fully (typically 24 hours) before tiling
• Total cost: £40-60 for a typical sink splashback area

This creates a waterproof barrier independent of the grout, protecting your plasterwork even if water does penetrate.

Heat Resistance Behind Cookers

The area directly behind gas and electric hobs needs to withstand temperatures up to 100°C from steam and splatter. Standard plaster and plasterboard handle this fine, but ensure:

• Minimum 150mm clearance between wall surface and any naked flames (gas hobs)
• Tiles are fixed with heat-resistant adhesive (most modern cement-based adhesives are fine)
• Heat-resistant grout is used (epoxy grout is ideal but pricey at £40-60/kg)
• No combustible materials behind the tiles (avoid timber studs directly behind hobs)

For comprehensive kitchen planning including safety zones and regulations, refer to our kitchen renovation guide.

Cost Breakdown: Kitchen Wall Preparation for Tiling

Budgeting accurately prevents nasty surprises mid-project. Here’s what you can expect to pay for professional plastering and preparation in 2026.

For a typical 10m² kitchen tiling area requiring full preparation, budget £400-750 for professional plastering and substrate preparation before the tiling even begins.

While this might seem expensive, it’s far cheaper than remedial work after tile failure. We’ve seen clients spend £2,000+ stripping failed installations and starting again because they skimped on preparation.

For detailed regional pricing variations, see our comprehensive UK plastering costs guide.

DIY vs Professional: When to Call in the Experts

Some preparation work is suitable for confident DIYers. Other tasks require professional expertise.

Suitable for DIY:

• Installing moisture-resistant plasterboard on new stud walls
• Preparing existing sound plaster (filling, sanding, priming)
• Applying PVA primer and tile backer boards
• Simple repairs and making good before tiling

Best Left to Professionals:

• Sand and cement rendering over large areas (achieving flat, level surfaces requires skill and experience)
• Remedial work removing failed plaster or render
• Tanking waterproofing in wet areas (errors invalidate guarantees)
• Structural repairs or work on load-bearing walls
• Any situation where damp or movement issues exist

The cost difference between DIY and professional work might be £300-500 for a typical kitchen, but the quality difference is significant. Poor substrate preparation is the leading cause of tile failure within the first 2-3 years.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to skim coat walls before tiling in the kitchen?

No, you should not apply a skim coat before tiling. Finishing plaster (like Thistle Multi-Finish) creates a smooth, dense surface that actually reduces tile adhesion. Tile adhesive bonds better to the slightly textured surface of wood-floated render or the paper face of primed plasterboard. If your walls are already skimmed, prime them with an SBR-based primer or lightly score the surface to provide mechanical key.

Can I tile directly onto plasterboard in a kitchen?

Yes, but only if you use moisture-resistant plasterboard (the green type). Standard grey plasterboard is not suitable for kitchen environments due to humidity and potential water exposure. Ensure the plasterboard is properly fixed at 400mm stud centres, all joints are taped and filled, and the surface is primed before tiling. Behind sinks and cookers, consider using cement-based tile backer board instead for enhanced water and heat resistance.

How long after plastering can I tile a kitchen wall?

This depends entirely on the plaster type. Sand and cement render requires 7-14 days to cure fully before tiling. Bonding plaster needs 2-3 days minimum. Plasterboard with filled joints can be tiled after 24 hours once joint compound is fully dry. Never tile onto visibly damp plaster—it must be uniformly light in colour with no dark patches. Use the polythene tape test: tape plastic sheeting to the wall overnight, and if condensation appears underneath by morning, the wall is still too damp.

What’s the best primer to use before kitchen tiling?

For render and standard plaster, diluted PVA (3:1 water to PVA) works well in non-wet areas. For areas behind sinks and cookers, use an SBR-based primer like BAL Bond SBR or Mapei Primer G, which provides waterproof properties and superior adhesion. On plasterboard, use a very dilute PVA mix (5:1) or an acrylic primer that won’t re-emulsify when wet adhesive is applied. Always allow primer to become tacky (not fully dry) before applying tile adhesive for optimal bond strength.

How much does it cost to prepare kitchen walls for tiling professionally?

Professional kitchen wall preparation costs vary by substrate and area size. Expect to pay £35-55/m² for sand and cement rendering, £25-40/m² for moisture-resistant plasterboard installation, or £50-85/m² for premium tile backer board installation. For a typical 10m² kitchen tiling area, total preparation costs range from £400-750 before tiling begins. While this seems expensive, proper preparation prevents tile failure and costly remedial work. Budget an additional £100-250 if waterproofing tanking is required behind sinks.

Can I use normal finishing plaster behind kitchen tiles?

Standard gypsum finishing plaster (pink plaster, multi-finish) is not recommended as a final substrate for kitchen tiling, especially in wet areas. It’s too soft, absorbs moisture, and lacks the strength required for heavy tiles. Gypsum plaster also provides poor mechanical key compared to render or the paper face of plasterboard. If walls are already skimmed with finishing plaster, you can still tile over them by thoroughly priming with SBR-based primer or scoring the surface. However, behind sinks and high-moisture areas, consider applying tile backer board over the existing plaster for better long-term performance.